The AKC has grouped all of the breeds that it registers into seven categories, or groups, roughly based on function and heritage. Breeds are grouped together because they share traits of form and function or a common heritage.
The Stabyhoun’s independent nature was a deliberately bred characteristic by farmers who wanted a dog that could hunt independently for moles and rabbits. That propensity we still see today, therefore, you cannot be upset if he looks for prey independently and, for example, digs in the garden. With proper guidance, a Staby is a gentle dog and a great friend for life.
Stabys are also very inquisitive. Always pay attention to what a Stabyhoun is up to because with their inquisitive nature, they can quickly get into trouble. If you think your Staby will sit quietly if something happens, you will often be disappointed. Although Stabys make a lot of noise when something is wrong or to alert his owner, they generally expect the owner to further investigate before they accept that things are normal. Most Stabys will need to verify that there are no “surprises” in store before calming down again.
This breed is a functional and powerfully-built pointing dog that originated in the Netherlands. The majority of Stabyhouns are black and white. The brown and white coloring is seen in the Netherlands, but the orange and white Stabyhoun is nearly extinct. The Staby’s build is such that it is greater in length than in height and similarly, the head shows more length than width. The feathering on his chest, collar, forelegs, trousers and tail gives the Staby the impression of being longhaired, but the coat is not excessively long. The Stabyhoun is considered to be an “all-around” dog, with abilities in hunting, retrieving, and pointing. They are also ideal family dogs because of their size and affectionate character.
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The Stabyhoun should do well on a high-quality dog food, whether commercially manufactured or home-prepared with your veterinarian’s supervision and approval. Any diet should be appropriate to the dog’s age (puppy, adult, or senior). Some dogs are prone to getting overweight, so watch your dog’s calorie consumption and weight level. Treats can be an important aid in training, but giving too many can cause obesity. Learn about which human foods are safe for dogs, and which are not. Check with your vet if you have any concerns about your dog’s weight or diet. Clean, fresh water should be available at all times.
A Stabyhoun’s grooming needs are almost nonexistent. Unless he is neutered, any necessary hair trimming can be done yourself. A neutered dog also comes with what is called a “castrated coat” where the undercoat is exploding and may require a bit more grooming.
Otherwise, the medium-length coat of the Stabyhoun is self-cleaning, meaning dirt falls off by itself when the coat is dry. One brush through it to remove the last remnants of sand and he is clean again. This also means that he only rarely gets a bath. Even if he really is very dirty, just a rinse or a swim in a clean pool is usually sufficient. Shampoo is only required if he has been rolling in something smelly; then, use a special, neutral dog shampoo so as not to strip his skin oils.
Daily exercise is necessary for the mental and physical health of your Staby. They do not require more than a good daily hour of exercise. Afterward, they are then content to sleep and rest quietly during the day. What is perhaps even more important is that the Staby needs a mental challenge. Stabys need to have a function in daily life, and preference should be given to something that offers variety. Agility, hunting, scent training, and lure coursing can all be productive and stimulating to your Staby. A busy dog is the perfect dog.
Stabys are self-motivated and quick learners. The reason for this lies mainly in the fact that the Staby had to work independently to destroy pests, so it was handy to have a real “thinker.” That suited the breed well at a time when there were few outside influences and hardly any traffic.
With positive and gentle training, the Staby is quick to learn and wants to please. Too much pressure is never a good idea, while a good coach is important. The Staby likes a job, but his family must provide a fair and consistent approach to his training, which is very important for a peaceful, happy and diverse education. A tough approach is useless with the Staby. He will completely cease working and no longer voluntarily perform his duties.
The Stabyhoun is, despite its small population, fortunately a relatively healthy breed. The ASA and the NVSW do everything possible to keep it that way. Responsible breeders screen their stock for health conditions such as epilepsy, hip and elbow dysplasia, patent ductus arteriosus, and cerebral dysfunction. The ASA’s breeding program is aimed to reduce these occurrences as much as possible, though it is not easy, as the causes are not always clear or strictly hereditary.
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Native to the Netherlands, the Stabyhoun is related to the Drentsche Patrijshond and Heidewachtel. He probably owes his name to his versatility; the word Stabyhoun is derived from the words sta mij bij or “stand by me,” while houn is the Frisian word for dog and is pronounced “hoon.”
The Stabyhoun that we know today shows definite similarities to dogs that were depicted in paintings from the 17th century. For example, those by the well-known Dutch artist Jan Steen. The Stabyhoun originated in the Frisian forest area of the Netherlands along with another breed, the Wetterhoun. In the early 20th century, Stabyhoun and Wetterhoun were regularly crossbred with each other, thereby, the unique varieties of each were threatened to be lost. In 1938, a group of enthusiastic people of the Kynologenclub Friesland started purifying the two breeds again and, in 1942, both breeds were officially recognized. Important names in this process were: J. Bos, T. van Dijk, B. de Graaf and W. Hoeksema. The first standard was dated February 10, 1944. In 1947, the Dutch Association for Staby and Wetterhounen (NVSW) was established with the mission to represent the interests of the Frisian breeds.
The first recorded Stabyhoun litter born in the United States was in 1994. As of 2017, the population of the Stabyhoun is more than 7,000 dogs worldwide. His popularity has grown across much of Europe and North America, including Belgium, Finland, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, the US and the UK, in addition to his native Netherlands.
Functional and powerful built pointing dog. The body is slightly longer than its height at the withers. The overall picture is neither too robust nor too fine. The skin should fit tightly. The feathering on chest, collar, forelegs, trousers and tail gives the Stabijhoun the impression of being longhaired, but the coat should not be excessively long. Sexual dimorphism should be unmistakable.
Dry, without pendulous lips or dewlap. The size of the head is in proportion to the body and sexual dimorphism should be clearly defined. The head exhibits more length than width. The length of the muzzle, measured from the nose to the stop is approximately equal to the length from the stop to the occiput. The expression is gentle, friendly and attentive.
Skull: The skull is slightly rounded and also slightly rounded on the sides, not narrow, but should not give the impression of being broad or round.
Stop: The skull is sloping gradually to the foreface. Seen from the side, the stop seams more marked due to the developed brows.
Nose: Black in dogs with a black and white coat colour. Brown in dogs with a brown and white coat colour. Nose well developed with wide-open nostrils.
Muzzle: Strong, tapering gradually to the nose tip, without being snipy, viewed both from above and from the side (wedge shaped). The nasal bridge is straight and broad, and viewed from the side neither concave nor convex.
Lips: Tightly fitting, not pendulous and not showing labial folds. Jaws/Teeth: Powerful and complete. Scissor bite. Missing PM1 or M3 is allowed, as is also a duplicate PM1.
Cheeks: Barely pronounced.
Eyes: Set horizontally. Medium sized, slightly rounded shape with close fitting eyelids, without a visible conjunctiva. The pigment of the iris is dark brown for dogs with black and white coat and a lighter brown colour for dogs with a brown and white coat colour.
Ears: The ears are set in an imaginary line drawn from the nose tip through the inside corner of the eyes. When attentive, the ears should not protrude beyond the outline of the skull. The ear auricle is not strongly developed, so the ears are worn smoothly lying against the head. They are moderately long, reaching to the corner of the mouth, and have the shape of a trowel that is not round, but ends in a rounded point. The hair of the ear is a typical feature; at the base of the ear it is quite long then decreases in length gradually with the lower third of the ear being covered with short hair. The hair should be straight, but slightly wavy is allowed. Hair on the ears should not reach longer than the ear itself as it gives an untidy appearance.
Neck: Strong and rounded, of medium length, but not too long. The neck runs smoothly with a blunt angle to the back line, so that the head is usually carried low.The neck shows no throatiness or dewlap.
Body: Powerful, clean cut and well muscled.
Top line: Smooth and strong topline.
Withers: Far enough back, strong, but not prominent Back: Strong and straight.
Loin: Strong and muscular.
Croup: Slightly sloping.
Chest: Deep, reaching to the elbows. Viewed from the front rather broad, so that the forelegs are set wide apart. Ribs well sprung but not barreled. The ribs are deep and long, so the ribcage extends as far back as possible. Elbows must be tight to the chest.
Underline and belly: Smooth and reaching far enough to the rear. The belly only slightly tucked up.
Tail: Length reaching to the hock joint. Not set high. The tail is usually worn down although the last third of the tail may turn up during rest or at a stand. During movement the tail lifts, but should never be worn on or over the back or in a spiral. The tail is round and covered up to the tip with long, dense hair, without curls, waves, or feathering. Instead, the tail has a bushy structure, so the hair around is generously long and thick, giving a full and rich appearance.
General appearance: Powerful, muscular and functionally angulated, so the legs are correctly under the body. Forelegs seen from the front standing a bit wide.
Shoulder: Shoulder blade close to the chest/body and well laid back. Upper arm: Functionally angulated.Length is equal to or only slightly shorter than the length of the shoulder blade.
Elbow: Strong, straight and parallel.
Forearm: Strong, straight and parallel.
Carpus (Wrist): Powerful, in the front straight, metacarpus.
Metacarpus (Pastern): Slightly sloping.
Forefeet: Strong, compact and slightly oval shaped. T oes well arched, closed and facing forward.
General appearance: Strong and functionally angulated, without exaggeration. When viewed from the rear, the legs are wide and hocks parallel.
Thigh: Of good width and length, well muscled and with functional angulations at hip and knee.
Stifle (Knee): Functionally angulated
Lower thigh: Of good length.
Hock joint: Straight, parallel and placed well apart, turning neither in nor out.
Metatarsus (Rear pastern): Of normal length.
Hind feet: Strong, compact and slightly oval shaped.Toes well arched, closed and facing forward.
Hair: The coat is of medium length and straight on the body with a weather-resistant undercoat. At the most, a slightly wavy coat is tolerated on the croup. With the bushy hair on the chest, collar, trousers and tail, the coat gives the impression of being longhaired. Coat on the head, the front of the forelegs, and on the front of the hocks is short. The hair on the back of the front legs is longer and well developed. On the trousers and the tail, the hair is bushy rather than feathered. A curly coat is not allowed.
Colour: The Stabijhoun is a pied dog in black or brown with white markings, but also black or brown roans are accepted. The white may have roaning or ticking. The head is black or brown, with or without a blaze. Both of these colours occur with or without plates. Coats with a (distinct) saddle are tolerated. Tan marking or tricolor is disqualifying.
|Description||Standard Colors||Registration Code|
|Black and White||Check Mark For Standard Color||019|
|Brown and White||Check Mark For Standard Color||063|
|Orange and White||Check Mark For Standard Color||134|
|Description||Standard Markings||Registration Code|
|Roan||Check Mark For Standard Mark||036|
|Spotted||Check Mark For Standard Mark||021|
|Ticked||Check Mark For Standard Mark||013|