The AKC has grouped all of the breeds that it registers into seven categories, or groups, roughly based on function and heritage. Breeds are grouped together because they share traits of form and function or a common heritage.
The Otterhound is a large, rough-coated hound with an imposing head showing great strength and dignity, and the strong body and long striding action fit for a long day’s work. It has an extremely sensitive nose, and is inquisitive and perseverant in investigating scents. The Otterhound hunts its quarry on land and water and requires a combination of characteristics unique among hounds-most notably a rough, double coat; and substantial webbed feet. Otterhounds should not be penalized for being shown in working condition (lean, well muscled, with a naturally stripped coat). Any departure from the following points should be considered a fault; its seriousness should be regarded in exact proportion to its degree.
The head is large, fairly narrow, and well covered with hair. The head should measure 11 to 12 inches from tip of nose to occiput in a hound 26 inches at the withers, with the muzzle and skull approximately equal in length. This proportion should be maintained in larger and smaller hounds. The expression is open and amiable. The eyes are deeply set. The haw shows only slightly. The eyes are dark, but eye color and eye rim pigment will complement the color of the hound. Dogs with black pigmented noses and eye rims should have darker eyes, while those with liver or slate pigment may have hazel eyes. The ears, an essential feature of this breed, are long, pendulous, and folded (the leading edge folds or rolls to give a draped appearance). They are set low, at or below eye level, and hang close to the head, with the leather reaching at least to the tip of the nose. They are well covered with hair.
The neck is powerful and blends smoothly into well laid back, clean shoulders, and should be of sufficient length to allow the dog to follow a trail. It has an abundance of hair; a slight dewlap is permissible. The topline is level from the withers to the base of tail. The chest is deep reaching at least to the elbows on a mature hound. Forechest is evident, there is sufficient width to impart strength and endurance. There should be no indication of narrowness or weakness. The well sprung, oval rib cage extends well towards the rear of the body. The loin is short, broad and strong.
Shoulders are clean, powerful, and well sloped with moderate angulation at shoulders and elbows. Legs are strongly boned and straight, with strong, slightly sprung pasterns. Dewclaws on the forelegs may be removed. Feet – Both front and rear feet are large, broad, compact when standing, but capable of spreading. They have thick, deep pads, with arched toes; they are web-footed (membranes connecting the toes allow the foot to spread).
The coat is an essential feature of the Otterhound. Coat texture and quality are more important than the length. The outer coat is dense, rough, coarse and crisp, of broken appearance. Softer hair on the head and lower legs is natural. The outer coat is two to four inches long on the back and shorter on the extremities. A water-resistant undercoat of short wooly, slightly oily hair is essential, but in the summer months may be hard to find except on the thighs and shoulders. The ears are well covered with hair, and the tail is feathered (covered and fringed with hair). A naturally stripped coat lacking length and fringes is correct for an Otterhound that is being worked. A proper hunting coat will show a hard outer coat and wooly undercoat. The Otterhound is shown in a natural coat, with no sculpturing or shaping of the coat.
Thighs and second thighs are large, broad, and well muscled. Legs have moderately bent stifles with well-defined hocks. Hocks are well let down, turning neither in nor out. Legs on a standing hound are parallel when viewed from the rear. Angulation front and rear must be balanced and adequate to give forward reach and rear drive. Dewclaws, if any, on the hind legs are generally removed. Feet are as previously described.
These big, bouncy hounds were ideally suited for otter hunting. OHs are built to be expert swimmers, from the top of their rough, waterproof coat to the bottom of their big webbed feet. A broad chest and powerful shoulders allow them to swim all day without tiring. Their large black nose is amazingly sensitive and could follow an otter’s underwater scent trail over great distances. And the OH’s size and strength enabled them to take on a sharp-toothed, razor-clawed otter that might weigh 20 pounds.
The Otterhound should do well on a high-quality dog food, whether commercially manufactured or home-prepared with your veterinarian’s supervision and approval. Any diet should be appropriate to the dog’s age (puppy, adult, or senior). Some dogs are prone to getting overweight, so watch your dog’s calorie consumption and weight level. Treats can be an important aid in training, but giving too many can cause obesity. Learn about which human foods are safe for dogs, and which are not. Check with your vet if you have any concerns about your dog’s weight or diet. Clean, fresh water should be available at all times.
While Otterhounds should be shown as naturally as possible, their coats do need brushing once or twice a week, depending on length and texture. A good slicker brush and medium comb work for this. The Otterhound’s beard may need cleaning at the same time, since the dogs tend to drag them on the ground and store snacks in them. Nails should be trimmed every week or two.
Otterhounds need mental as well as physical exercise. A large, securely fenced yard is a good beginning, but some hounds will lie under a tree in a fenced acre rather than self-exercise. Long walks to sniff the world and visit passersby are good for both owners and hounds. Obedience classes, tracking, and agility all provide mental stimulation as well as good exercise.
As large and strong as Otterhounds are, they can be very sensitive. Use positive, reward-based training methods and praise to get the best results. Like people, Otterhounds love to be told how wonderful and talented they are when they master something. Be patient. Food usually works well in training, but the combination of food and praise together is even better. Clicker training can also work well with Otterhounds.
Otterhounds are healthy for a large breed, and responsible breeders screen their stock for health conditions such as epilepsy and hip dysplasia, though even dogs with moderate hip dysplasia on radiographs may move very well for their entire lives. Like all large dogs, Otterhounds can experience bloat, a life-threatening condition where the stomach enlarges and sometimes twists. Owners should educate themselves about the signs of bloat and the action to take should it occur.
Recommended Health Tests from the National Breed Club:
Read the Official Breed Club Health Statement.
The Otterhound is a large, rough-coated hound with an imposing head showing great strength and dignity, and the strong body and long striding action fit for a long day’s work. It has an extremely sensitive nose, and is inquisitive and perseverant in investigating scents. The Otterhound hunts its quarry on land and water and requires a combination of characteristics unique among hounds-most notably a rough, double coat; and substantial webbed feet. Otterhounds should not be penalized for being shown in working condition (lean, well muscled, with a naturally stripped coat). Any departure from the following points should be considered a fault; its seriousness should be regarded in exact proportion to its degree.
The head is large, fairly narrow, and well covered with hair. The head should measure 11 to 12 inches from tip of nose to occiput in a hound 26 inches at the withers, with the muzzle and skull approximately equal in length. This proportion should be maintained in larger and smaller hounds. The expression is open and amiable. The eyes are deeply set. The haw shows only slightly. The eyes are dark, but eye color and eye rim pigment will complement the color of the hound. Dogs with black pigmented noses and eye rims should have darker eyes, while those with liver or slate pigment may have hazel eyes. The ears, an essential feature of this breed, are long, pendulous, and folded (the leading edge folds or rolls to give a draped appearance). They are set low, at or below eye level, and hang close to the head, with the leather reaching at least to the tip of the nose. They are well covered with hair.
The neck is powerful and blends smoothly into well laid back, clean shoulders, and should be of sufficient length to allow the dog to follow a trail. It has an abundance of hair; a slight dewlap is permissible. The topline is level from the withers to the base of tail. The chest is deep reaching at least to the elbows on a mature hound. Forechest is evident, there is sufficient width to impart strength and endurance. There should be no indication of narrowness or weakness. The well sprung, oval rib cage extends well towards the rear of the body. The loin is short, broad and strong.
Shoulders are clean, powerful, and well sloped with moderate angulation at shoulders and elbows. Legs are strongly boned and straight, with strong, slightly sprung pasterns. Dewclaws on the forelegs may be removed. Feet – Both front and rear feet are large, broad, compact when standing, but capable of spreading. They have thick, deep pads, with arched toes; they are web-footed (membranes connecting the toes allow the foot to spread).
The coat is an essential feature of the Otterhound. Coat texture and quality are more important than the length. The outer coat is dense, rough, coarse and crisp, of broken appearance. Softer hair on the head and lower legs is natural. The outer coat is two to four inches long on the back and shorter on the extremities. A water-resistant undercoat of short wooly, slightly oily hair is essential, but in the summer months may be hard to find except on the thighs and shoulders. The ears are well covered with hair, and the tail is feathered (covered and fringed with hair). A naturally stripped coat lacking length and fringes is correct for an Otterhound that is being worked. A proper hunting coat will show a hard outer coat and wooly undercoat. The Otterhound is shown in a natural coat, with no sculpturing or shaping of the coat.
Thighs and second thighs are large, broad, and well muscled. Legs have moderately bent stifles with well-defined hocks. Hocks are well let down, turning neither in nor out. Legs on a standing hound are parallel when viewed from the rear. Angulation front and rear must be balanced and adequate to give forward reach and rear drive. Dewclaws, if any, on the hind legs are generally removed. Feet are as previously described.
| Description | Standard Colors | Registration Code |
| Black | Check Mark For Standard Color | 007 |
| Black & Tan | Check Mark For Standard Color | 018 |
| Blue & Cream | Check Mark For Standard Color | 273 |
| Gray | Check Mark For Standard Color | 100 |
| Liver & Tan | Check Mark For Standard Color | 124 |
| Tan | Check Mark For Standard Color | 195 |
| Wheaten | Check Mark For Standard Color | 224 |
| Blue | 037 | |
| Lemon | 114 | |
| White | 199 | |
| White Black & Tan | 219 |
| Description | Standard Markings | Registration Code |
| Badger Markings | Check Mark For Standard Mark | 001 |
| Black & Tan Markings | Check Mark For Standard Mark | 039 |
| Black Markings | Check Mark For Standard Mark | 002 |
| Grizzle Markings | Check Mark For Standard Mark | 064 |
| Liver Markings | Check Mark For Standard Mark | 010 |
| White Markings | Check Mark For Standard Mark | 014 |
| Lemon Markings | 063 | |
| Silver Markings | 034 | |
| Tan Markings | 012 | |
| White & Tan Markings | 062 |
