The AKC has grouped all of the breeds that it registers into seven categories, or groups, roughly based on function and heritage. Breeds are grouped together because they share traits of form and function or a common heritage.
An elegant, substantial and symmetrical gun dog suggesting the ideal blend of strength, stamina, grace, and style. Flat-coated with feathering of good length. Gaiting freely and smoothly with long forward reach, strong rear drive and firm topline. Males decidedly masculine without coarseness. Females decidedly feminine without over-refinement. Overall appearance, balance, gait, and purpose to be given more emphasis than any component part. Above all, extremes of anything distort type and must be faulted.
Size and proportion in harmony with body. Long and lean with a well defined stop. When viewed from the side, head planes (top of muzzle, top of skull and bottom of lower jaw) are parallel. Skull-oval when viewed from above, of medium width, without coarseness, and only slightly wider at the earset than at the brow. Moderately defined occipital protuberance. Length of skull from occiput to stop equal in length of muzzle. Eyes-dark brown, the darker the better. Bright, and spaced to give a mild and intelligent expression. Nearly round, fairly large, neither deepset nor protruding. Eyelid rims dark and fully pigmented. Lids fit tightly so that haw is not exposed. Ears-set well back and low, even with or below eye level. When relaxed carried close to the head. Of moderate length, slightly rounded at the ends, moderately thin leather, and covered with silky hair.
Neck is long and graceful, muscular and lean. Arched at the crest and cleancut where it joins the head at the base of the skull. Larger and more muscular toward the shoulders, with the base of the neck flowing smoothly into the shoulders. Not too throaty. Topline-in motion or standing appears level or sloping slightly downward without sway or drop from withers to tail forming a graceful outline of medium length. Forechest-well developed, point of sternum projecting slightly in front of point of shoulder/upper arm joint. Chest-deep, but not so wide or round as to interfere with the action of the forelegs. Brisket deep enough to reach the level of the elbow. Ribs-long, springing gradually to the middle of the body, then tapering as they approach the end of the chest cavity. Back-straight and strong at its junction with loin. Loin-strong, moderate in length, slightly arched. Tuck up moderate. Hips-croup nearly flat. Hip bones wide apart, hips rounded and blending smoothly into hind legs.
Shoulder-shoulder blade well laid back. Upper arm equal in length to and forming a nearly right angle with the shoulder blade. Shoulders fairly close together at the tips. Shoulder blades lie flat and meld smoothly with contours of body. Forelegs- from front or side, forelegs straight and parallel. Elbows have no tendency to turn in or out when standing or gaiting. Arm flat and muscular. Bone substantial but not coarse and muscles hard and devoid of flabbiness. Pasterns-short, strong and nearly round with the slope deviating very slightly forward from the perpendicular. Feet-face directly forward. Toes closely set, strong and well arched. Pads well developed and tough. Dewclaws may be removed.
Wide, muscular thighs and well developed lower thighs. Pelvis equal in length to and forming a nearly right angle with upper thigh. In balance with forequarter assembly. Stifle well bent and strong. Lower thigh only slightly longer than upper thigh. Hock joint well bent and strong. Rear pastern short, strong, nearly round and perpendicular to the ground. Hind legs, when seen from the rear, straight and parallel to each other. Hock joints have no tendency to turn in or out when standing or gaiting.
Flat without curl or wooliness. Feathering on ears, chest, abdomen, underside of thighs, back of all legs and on the tail of good length but not so excessive as to hide true lines and movement or to affect the dog’s appearance or function as a sporting dog.
A smooth continuation of the topline. Tapering to a fine point with only sufficient length to reach the hock joint or slightly less. Carried straight and level with the back. Feathering straight and silky, hanging loosely in a fringe.
English Setters are elegant but solid dogs of beauty and charm. The word “belton,” unique to the breed, describes the speckled coat patterns of colors that sound good enough to eat: liver, lemon, and orange among them. Under the showy coat is a well-balanced hunter standing about 25 inches at the shoulder.
A graceful neck carries a long, oval-shaped head proudly, and dark brown eyes convey a soft expression. The merry English Setter is known as the gentleman of the dog world but is game and boisterous at play. English Setters get on well with other dogs and people. A veteran all-breed dog handler says, “As a breed to share one’s life and living space with, no other breed gives me more pleasure than the English Setter.”
English Setter puppies should be fed small amounts three times a day. Once the dog is a year old, feeding a good-quality dog food twice a day is ideal. Keep in mind that English Setters can easily overeat and become obese, so you’ll need to monitor your dog’s diet his entire life to make sure he maintains a healthy weight. And the breed loves to “counter surf”—try to not leave tempting food items within reach, and use positive training to discourage the behavior. An English Setter’s nose can lead him to food anywhere: Some have been known to get into the dishwasher following the scent of a morsel left on a plate!
To keep their long, silky coats beautiful, English Setters need to be brushed at least once a week with a soft bristle brush. A long-toothed metal dog comb can also come in handy for gently working through areas where tangles may be beginning to form. Left unattended, tangles and mats are uncomfortable for your dog and can cause skin problems to develop. Regular trimming around the face, feet, and other areas can keep your English Setter looking neat. Nails should be trimmed once a month, and a bath every four to six weeks keeps the English Setter’s coat and skin clean and healthy.
An English Setter needs regular exercise to stay happy and healthy. Ideally this could be a daily vigorous run or play session in a large, securely fenced area. Many owners don’t have access to such an area, however, so they may ride a bicycle with their English Setter alongside on a leash, jog with him, or take him for long walks or hikes. Because their bones and joints may not reach mature strength until two years of age, it’s best to avoid very strenuous or high-impact activity with puppies and young dogs. Even though they are energetic athletes when outdoors, English Setters will usually settle right down as quiet companions in the home after their daily run or walk.
English Setters are sensible, good-natured, and devoted companions. They are very sensitive and take reprimands to heart, so it’s best to teach them with positive reinforcement rather than punishment. Their keen nose and prey drive can lead them to follow their instincts—but this can get them into trouble, so it’s important to start training early and be consistent. As puppies they’re especially curious about everything, so remember to keep valuable or dangerous items out of reach. When given the attention, training, and exercise he needs, an English Setter is wonderfully companionable and pleasantly manageable in the home.
English Setters are generally healthy dogs. Responsible breeders screen their breeding stock for health concerns such as elbow and hip dysplasia and deafness. The breed can experience bloat, a sudden, life-threatening stomach condition, and owners should learn what signs to look out for and what to do should it occur. The ears should be checked regularly for signs of infection.
Recommended Health Tests from the National Breed Club:
Read the Official Breed Club Health Statement.
An elegant, substantial and symmetrical gun dog suggesting the ideal blend of strength, stamina, grace, and style. Flat-coated with feathering of good length. Gaiting freely and smoothly with long forward reach, strong rear drive and firm topline. Males decidedly masculine without coarseness. Females decidedly feminine without over-refinement. Overall appearance, balance, gait, and purpose to be given more emphasis than any component part. Above all, extremes of anything distort type and must be faulted.
Size and proportion in harmony with body. Long and lean with a well defined stop. When viewed from the side, head planes (top of muzzle, top of skull and bottom of lower jaw) are parallel. Skull-oval when viewed from above, of medium width, without coarseness, and only slightly wider at the earset than at the brow. Moderately defined occipital protuberance. Length of skull from occiput to stop equal in length of muzzle. Eyes-dark brown, the darker the better. Bright, and spaced to give a mild and intelligent expression. Nearly round, fairly large, neither deepset nor protruding. Eyelid rims dark and fully pigmented. Lids fit tightly so that haw is not exposed. Ears-set well back and low, even with or below eye level. When relaxed carried close to the head. Of moderate length, slightly rounded at the ends, moderately thin leather, and covered with silky hair.
Neck is long and graceful, muscular and lean. Arched at the crest and cleancut where it joins the head at the base of the skull. Larger and more muscular toward the shoulders, with the base of the neck flowing smoothly into the shoulders. Not too throaty. Topline-in motion or standing appears level or sloping slightly downward without sway or drop from withers to tail forming a graceful outline of medium length. Forechest-well developed, point of sternum projecting slightly in front of point of shoulder/upper arm joint. Chest-deep, but not so wide or round as to interfere with the action of the forelegs. Brisket deep enough to reach the level of the elbow. Ribs-long, springing gradually to the middle of the body, then tapering as they approach the end of the chest cavity. Back-straight and strong at its junction with loin. Loin-strong, moderate in length, slightly arched. Tuck up moderate. Hips-croup nearly flat. Hip bones wide apart, hips rounded and blending smoothly into hind legs.
Shoulder-shoulder blade well laid back. Upper arm equal in length to and forming a nearly right angle with the shoulder blade. Shoulders fairly close together at the tips. Shoulder blades lie flat and meld smoothly with contours of body. Forelegs- from front or side, forelegs straight and parallel. Elbows have no tendency to turn in or out when standing or gaiting. Arm flat and muscular. Bone substantial but not coarse and muscles hard and devoid of flabbiness. Pasterns-short, strong and nearly round with the slope deviating very slightly forward from the perpendicular. Feet-face directly forward. Toes closely set, strong and well arched. Pads well developed and tough. Dewclaws may be removed.
Wide, muscular thighs and well developed lower thighs. Pelvis equal in length to and forming a nearly right angle with upper thigh. In balance with forequarter assembly. Stifle well bent and strong. Lower thigh only slightly longer than upper thigh. Hock joint well bent and strong. Rear pastern short, strong, nearly round and perpendicular to the ground. Hind legs, when seen from the rear, straight and parallel to each other. Hock joints have no tendency to turn in or out when standing or gaiting.
Flat without curl or wooliness. Feathering on ears, chest, abdomen, underside of thighs, back of all legs and on the tail of good length but not so excessive as to hide true lines and movement or to affect the dog’s appearance or function as a sporting dog.
A smooth continuation of the topline. Tapering to a fine point with only sufficient length to reach the hock joint or slightly less. Carried straight and level with the back. Feathering straight and silky, hanging loosely in a fringe.
| Description | Standard Colors | Registration Code |
| BLUE BELTON | Check Mark For Standard Color | 046 |
| BLUE BELTON & TAN (TRI-COLOR) | Check Mark For Standard Color | 351 |
| LEMON BELTON | Check Mark For Standard Color | 116 |
| LIVER BELTON | Check Mark For Standard Color | 381 |
| ORANGE BELTON | Check Mark For Standard Color | 135 |
| WHITE | 199 |
